TAUNTON RIVER POWER SQUADRON
A Component Squadron of District 14
A unit of the United States Power Squadrons®
PROMOTING SAFETY IN SAIL AND POWER
BOATING
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TAUNTON RIVER POWER SQUADRON A Component Squadron of District 14 A unit of the United States Power Squadrons® PROMOTING SAFETY IN SAIL AND POWER
BOATING
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FALL LAY-UP GUIDE Get your boat looking good now and it will be waiting for you in the spring. The onset of cold weather means that anything that can freeze needs to be taken off the boat, emptied, or protected. Remember, many of the winterization chores simply can't be done with frozen fingers. Winterization begins with a number of decisions. When to haul out, and how and where to store it, are the first. To save costs and/or make it easier to carry out repairs, upgrades, and maintenance, storing the boat in the backyard may be the way to go. If the boat won't need any attention during the winter and the cost is not prohibitive, leave it at the marina under a tarp or shrink-wrap. A tarp is less expensive than shrink-wrap, but it can require frequent visits to make sure it has not come loose, ripped, or overburdened with snow and ice. There is an alternative to hauling out for the winter. A bubbler system or even just some planks, hung at the waterline to prevent ice from chafing through the gelcoat, or breaking away the rudder, can allow you to keep the boat in the water throughout the freezing months. This is generally not an option, though, unless you are a liveaboard. It also doesn't eliminate the need to carry out routine fall and winter maintenance. In some locations the extra windage of the mast, may be a concern, when the wind blows hard, and the safety of the boat may require unstepping the mast and placing it in a cradle. Ideally, the mast should come down since water wicking down it into swages can freeze and crack these fittings. Unstepped and laid lengthwise, however, the mast can support a cover, which will otherwise need a frame to keep the cover away from the deck and provide air circulation. Before the cover goes on, however, items that can be damaged by the cold, salt air, or mildew, or that might attract thieves, should be removed. And most importantly, the engine needs proper care. Unlike the parts of the boat that are only animated by wind or muscle, the engine needs special care as the temperature drops. Even an outboard, which can easily be separated from the boat and brought to a warm, cozy place for the winter, needs special attention. The owner's manual, for every engine, describes the tasks that must be completed to ensure your engine fires up again, in the spring. They include tasks which are aimed at preventing corrosion, protecting against dirt, and avoiding damage from the cold.
If the boat is hauled too late in the year, these tasks might not be possible to complete, because of the cold. Fingers need to be warm and nimble and fluids need to be fluid; not congealed or frozen. Most marinas will be happy to perform these chores for you. Aside from cost, there are at least two reasons why you should try to perform the engine maintenance chores yourself. First and foremost is that the freedom of sailing is closely linked to self-sufficiency. As the captain, you need to be familiar with every part of your boat in order to diagnose and carry out emergency repairs. Second is your boat needs regular, reliable, and loving care. You should have a checklist of maintenance chores which are based upon manufacturers' recommendations and your own sense of what the boat needs. Most marinas have trained personnel who can reliably take care of a boat's maintenance chores, but they are not likely to be following the same checklist that you would be using. If this is a checklist that has been handed down to you, by former owners of your boat, the resale value of your boat may depend a great deal on your ability to check off each item yourself every year. Marina invoices are not likely to carry nearly as much weight with prospective buyers as a checklist meticulously maintained by a series of owners. Winterization is a burden comprised of chores that may be unfamiliar to you, require skills that you may not possess, and be a tradition that you are not sure you can honor as well as your predecessors did. But, you owe it to yourself and your boat to try. If you don't, you may wind up with a boat that has a record of indifferent care and that future owners will not value as much. You're also bound to learn something along the way. Your vessel's engine will likely require a little extra effort and if you care for her, she will care for you. Next season, the engine will spring to life at the press of a button. The Winter Season Checklist
When you are "all through", Kick back and relax, Take a Power Squadron Advanced Grade Course, and begin planning next season's cruises. SPRINGTIME INSPECTION AND FITTING OUT
GUIDE I. WHILE STILL IN THE CRADLE: Inspect and lubricate all seacocks. Hoses and hose
clamps should be inspected Inspect cockpit scupper drain hoses for winter ice damage and replace as necessary. Replace deteriorated zincs. Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting and distortion. Make
sure cotter pins are secure. Check to make sure the rudder stock hasn't been bent. Inspect and lubricate all steering mechanisms. Inspect the hull for blisters, distortions and stress cracks. Make sure your engine intake sea strainer is free of corrosion and properly secured. OUTDRIVES & OUTBOARDS: Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried
and/or deteriorated spots Check power steering and power trim oil levels. Replace worn-out zincs. Inspect outer jacket of control cables. Cracks or
swelling indicate corrosion and ENGINES & FUEL SYSTEMS: Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for
softness, brittleness or cracking. Inspect fuel tanks, fuel pumps and filters for leaks.
Clamps should be snug and free of Inspect cooling hoses and fittings for stiffness, rots, leaks and/or cracking. Make sure they fit snugly and are double-clamped. Every few years, remove and inspect exhaust manifold for corrosion and build-up of carbon deposits. ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT Test all lights and electronic equipment Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially both ends of battery cables. Wire-brush battery terminals and fill cells with distilled water. Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks. SAILBOAT RIGGING: Inspect fittings for cracks and rust. Inspect wire halyards and running backstays for "fishhooks" and rust . Remove tape on turnbuckles and lubricate threads, preferably with Teflon. Replace old tape with fresh tape. Recaulk deck-mounted chainplates as necessary. II. WHEN YOU LAUNCH: Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for steady leaks and looseness. Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulks or gaskets as necessary. TRAILERS: Inspect tire treads and sidewalls for cracks or lack of
tread and replace as necessary. Inspect bearings and repack as necessary. Test tail and back-up lights. Test winch to make sure it's working properly. MISCELLANEOUS: Check expiration dates on flares and fire extinguishers. Check stove and remote tanks for loose fittings and leaking hoses. Inspect bilge pump and float switch to make sure it's working properly. Inspect dock and anchor lines for chafing; thimbles, chain, and shackles for corrosion. Update or replace old charts, waterway guides. Make sure your boating license and/or registration is up to date. Don't forget your trailer tags. Review your boat insurance policy and update coverage if needed. Make sure you have a properly sized and wearable life jackets in good condition for each passenger, including kids and pets. |
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